Montmartre, Paris
Bonjour Les Amis,
In this edition of The Travel Dispatch, Solferino invites you to explore Montmartre, the highest point in Paris, and a neighborhood that holds a special place in my heart. From 2016 to 2017, and a part of 2018, I called this charming corner of Paris home while studying at Sciences Po. My first apartment, located at 48 Rue Hermel near the Jules Joffrin stop on the 12 line, sat right at the base of the hill. I vividly recall my morning runs from the foot of the hill to its summit, where I would marvel at the breathtaking view of Paris spread out before me, feeling immensely fortunate. Even nearly a decade later, the memories of calling Montmartre home remain cherished.
When deciding where to reside during my time abroad, Montmartre wasn’t an obvious choice initially, but its allure captivated me swiftly. While Paris may seem like a village compared to cities like New York, London, or Tokyo, Montmartre felt like a village within a village. Its narrow, winding streets, scarcely wider than a Fiat 500, its historic timbered homes predating Haussmann's renovations, and its rich artistic heritage, including luminaries like Picasso, Van Gogh, Toulouse-Lautrec, and Modigliani, all contribute to its timeless charm. Even today, you can witness artists channeling that same creative spirit in the lively Place du Tertre.
However, Montmartre’s allure wouldn't be complete without the Sacre Coeur Basilica, which crowns the hill like a majestic jewel, a testament to Paris’ Catholic heritage. Its distinctive egg-shaped domes punctuate the city skyline, offering glimpses of grandeur amidst Montmartre’s quaint streets. As the highest point in Paris, the basilica's base offers an unparalleled vista, providing a panoramic view of the city below, with 1 Rue Saint-Éleuthère offering perhaps the most enchanting view of the distant Eiffel Tower.
For me, visiting Montmartre is not just a personal pilgrimage but a shared experience of nostalgia for all who wander its streets.
I can't cover every rue and boulevard in this guide – that's what the Solferino Itinerary & Guidebook is for – I'm thrilled to share some of my personal highlights, including favorite sights, culinary delights, and shopping gems. Be sure to subscribe to The Travel Dispatch for our bi-weekly newsletter, keeping you up to date on all our latest adventures!
Enjoy,
John
Sights
Basilica of Sacré Coeur de Montmartre
Perched atop the Butte de Montmartre since 1875, the Sacré-Cœur Basilica stands as a majestic beacon overlooking Paris. Ascend to the summit, either by the charming funicular or the historic staircase, to behold breathtaking vistas of the city below. Within its sacred walls, daily Mass offers a serene experience, where visitors can immerse themselves in the beauty of a traditional French Catholic service, complete with swirling incense. As a timeless symbol of faith and architectural grandeur, Sacré-Cœur Basilica beckons travelers to marvel at its spiritual and panoramic allure.
Rue de l’Abreuvoir
Nestled in the charming neighborhood of Montmartre in Paris, Rue de l'Abreuvoir exudes a quaint and romantic ambiance that captivates visitors with its cobblestone streets and historic architecture. Lined with cozy cafes, art galleries, and ivy-covered buildings, this picturesque street invites wanderers to step back in time and experience the bohemian spirit of old Paris.
Immortalized in the works of artists like Vincent van Gogh, Rue de l'Abreuvoir offers a glimpse into the city's rich artistic heritage and serves as a tranquil retreat from the bustling city streets, making it a must-visit destination for anyone seeking to immerse themselves in Parisian charm.
Rue des Abbesses
Rue des Abbesses, a vibrant street in Montmartre, Paris, is known for its charming, colorful storefronts and funicular railway. Packed with cafes, shops, and street performers, it offers a delightful escape into a whimsical Parisian atmosphere.
1 Rue Saint-Éleuthère
My favorite view of the Eiffel tower from afar - this location is fairly nondescript. Off to the side of the basilica, you’ll find a clearing guarded by a wrought iron fence, and from there you’ll see La Tour Eiffel and all of Paris below.
Dining
Al Caratello
My favorite hidden gem of Montmartre, Al Caratello is tiny tiny restaurant that serves some of the best Italian in Paris. I’ve spent many an evening here and have never been disappointed with the Ravioli Maria Rosa.
Au Relais
In an unassuming corner of Montmartre sits a restaurant that I’ve spent countless evenings at. Au Relais, is a classic bistro serving great fare to locals. Off the beaten tourist path, this restaurant serves a great app/entree/desert combo for 25€.
Le Moulin de la Galette
Le Moulin de la Galette in Montmartre is a historic windmill turned into a famous open-air cafe and a symbol of the artistic bohemian lifestyle in late 19th century Paris. Located in the northern part of the city, Montmartre was a hub for artists, writers, and musicians seeking inspiration and freedom. The Moulin de la Galette became a popular gathering spot for creatives such as Renoir, Picasso, and Van Gogh. Today, the site still stands as a reminder of Paris' artistic past, attracting both locals and tourists alike to its charming atmosphere and picturesque surroundings.
Shopping?
Brocante Des Abbesses
Every Sunday the streets surrounding Place des Abbesses turn into a classic Parisian open-air market. The stalls range from fresh produce to antiques dealers. Perhaps the least touristy of all the Parisian markets, the brocante is a great spot to spend a Sunday morning after your cafe-croissant.
Bonus point: If you’re in the market for a painters jacket/chore jacket - this is the place to get it!
Solferino Products
Solferino Products
The Solferino Guidebook mirrors the content of our itineraries but in a tangible, physical form. This bound book serves as a comprehensive, curated travel companion. Its physicality ensures you have a copy with you everywhere you go, and it even features a section where you can preserve small mementos from your trip—creating a lasting keepsake for a lifetime of memories.