Paris’ Left Bank
Hi Friends,
Greetings and welcome back to The Travel Dispatch! After a much-needed hiatus from my travels in Mexico, I'm delighted to return this week with a destination that holds a special place in my heart - Paris. This captivating city has always drawn me in, ever since my earliest memories as a four-year-old traveler. With each subsequent visit, my appreciation for its charm and allure has only deepened.
While attempting to encompass the entirety of Paris in a single blog post would be a daunting task, I'm excited to introduce a new series on The Travel Dispatch titled "Solferino in Paris." In this series, we'll delve into the city, exploring its various neighborhoods one by one. And what better place to start than the Left Bank, or Rive Gauche, an area that holds personal significance for me as a former student at Sciences Po. During the Belle Époque, this district was the epicenter of Western culture, attracting a vibrant community of artists and intellectuals. Today, it continues to exude a rich cultural heritage and a unique sense of sophistication.
Among the many treasures of the Rive Gauche, one of my absolute favorites is the Luxembourg Gardens. This verdant oasis in the heart of Paris offers a tranquil escape from the hustle and bustle of city life. One of life’s greatest joys is to sit there on a sunny day, enjoy a coffee, and watch the world go by.
I can't cover every rue and boulevard in this guide – that's what the Solferino Itinerary & Guidebook is for – I'm thrilled to share some of my personal highlights, including favorite sights, culinary delights, and shopping gems. Be sure to subscribe to The Travel Dispatch for our bi-weekly newsletter, keeping you up to date on all our latest adventures!
Enjoy,
John
Sights
Jardin du Luxembourg
My absolute favorite park in Paris, the Luxembourg Gardens, or Le Jardin du Luxembourg, is a paradise amidst the hustle of Paris. Located on the Left Bank, the grounds used to be royal property with the Palais du Luxembourg as its centerpiece. Le Grand Basin sits at the center of the park, where on a sunny day you’ll see Parisians and tourists alike basking.
Perhaps the most beautiful corner of the park is located in the eastern edge, called the Fontaine Medicis, or the Medici Fountain. A folly designed for Catherine de Medici, this fountain is shrouded by trees and is a great spot to sit down, have a coffee, and enjoy a sandwich
Musée d’Orsay
The Musée d'Orsay in Paris is like stepping into a vibrant art time capsule housed in an old railway station—it's packed with impressionist and post-impressionist artworks by famous names like Monet and Van Gogh. Whether you're an art aficionado or just looking for a cool spot to explore, the museum's blend of stunning art and unique architecture makes it a must-visit.
Les Invalides & Musée Rodin
l’Hôtel des Invalides was initially a military hospital commissioned by Emperor Napoleon, today it serves as Napoleon’s resting place - located under that massive gilded dome. Although a worthy museum, I think it’s okay to skip - instead head over to the left side of the massive complex and find yourself at Musée Rodin.
Located on Rue de Varenne, one of the most iconic streets in the left bank, Musée Rodin is a museum dedicated to impressionist sculptor Auguste Rodin. Visiting the space is like stepping back to the turn of the century Paris. The gardens are also immaculately manicured and worth the visit.
Les Invalides: 129 Rue de Grenelle, 75007 & Musée Rodin 77 Rue de Varenne, 75007
Dining
Les Deux Magots
Saint Germain Des Pres is the intellectual heart of the left bank, home to several elite French universities and some of France’s foremost philosophers. Think: Sartre, Camus, etc. These thinkers brought much clout to the neighborhood, and effectively have made three cafes world famous for being host to their discussion. Les Deux Magots, Café des Fleurs, and Brasserie Lipp are Parisian institutions - you cannot leave without visiting at least one and imaging yourself as part of Paris’ intelligentsia.
Bar Josephine
Located in the elegant Hotel Lutetia, Bar Josephine is one of the chicest bars to be at in Paris. Plush and resplendent, the crowd tends to be a bit older, but the vibes are excellent. Stay for a dirty martini, and indulge at one of Paris’ grandest hotels.
Le Hibou
Classic en-terrase dining in a Odeon, Le Hibou is an upscale brasserie known for its weekly specials. Everything is great, especially the Scallops, Linguine alle Vongole, and the truffle ravioli. A vibey spot, arrive in the late afternoon to get an outdoor spot.
Shopping
Le Bon Marche & Le Grand Épicerie
The very best of shopping in Paris takes form at Le Bon Marche, the most prominent department store in the left bank. Comparable to the very nicest of Nordstrom, The Bon Marche is an aesthetic fashion dream come to life. With 4 floors of dedicated shopping from Haute Couture, to high-end every day brands. What makes this store so special is the attached gourmet grocery store, Le Grand Épicerie. With ready to eat stalls, and produce that looks to good to be real - its worthwhile lingering to get some French treats to bring home.
Mariage Frères
Founded in 1854, Mariage Frères, has been a heritage brand of France well 100 years. Family run and operated, the teas can be found served in the world’s finest hotels and at the homes of the world’s elite. A great stop to get a tin of their exquisite teas.
